The weather continues to be dry, and many established plants are beginning to show stress from lack of adequate precipitation in July. It is all the more important to keep an eye on any newly transplanted trees and shrubs (i.e., anything moved in the last year), and make sure they are getting a good watering twice a week.
DO NOT (as I’ve mentioned numerous times in the past) use a lawn sprinkler to water trees and shrubs, they are inefficient and do not get moisture down to where woody plants have their roots. Place the hose end next to the plant and let the water slowly run so that it soaks into the ground and does not run off.
If you have any pines in your estate that are looking “leggy”, you can trim them up now, so that in the years to come they will look fuller. If they are over eight feet tall, this may be a problematic undertaking.
The process is referred to as “shearing”, and is what Christmas tree growers do to make their pines (White, Red, and Scotch are the most common) look more robust. The down side with shearing is that you are removing ½ to 2/3 of the current years new growth.
“ Why on earth would you do that ?”, some of you are undoubtedly asking.
The answer is that pines (and pines only) set buds on the ends of those sheared branches, and as a result look fuller in following years. Hence most Christmas tree growers shear their pines every year. True, it takes longer for a tree to reach a certain height if you keep removing a portion of its new growth each season, but the net result is a very dense looking tree. Commercial growers use shearing knives to prune their pines, but if you have only a couple trees, a hedge clippers will work ok. The idea is to shear the tree so that it looks like an inverted pointy ice cream cone, with a “leader” (a stem, or central branch of the tree) that sticks up about 6 to 8 inches above the apex of the “cone”.
If you are going to do this, do not delay, July and early August are good times to do this, so that the tree has ample time to form those lateral buds for next years growth.
Some customers are experiencing Japanese Beetle problems now. If you are not noticing those metallic green insects, good for you. Leave well enough alone. If they are a problem, you might want to try a granular insecticide that you apply to your lawn. It works to kill the grub stage of the beetle that feeds on the roots of plants. This solution will not eliminate the beetles that already exist, but it will eliminate their offspring and grubs still in the ground. It will benefit you next year, rather than this year. Insecticides labeled for Japanese Beetles may be of some help eliminating current infestations, but it is best to use the spray only where you find them congregating.
Get the most bang for your buck, that way. A last resort is the Beetle trap. They do work, but remember they function by attracting beetles to the trap, so they could make a mild infestation worse by luring more beetles to your yard. Use only if the critters are abundant. Better garden centers, such as Piala’s , have personnel that can address your needs and give you specific recommendations on any of your insect problems. Stop on out.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Watering During a Midwest 'Drought'
Welcome to summer! Since the Summer Solstice has passed we are officially in summer, although the past couple days feel more like spring as far as temperatures go. Do not worry, this being Wisconsin, we’ll be roasting soon.
The bad news, from a geographical perspective, is that length of daylight is now on the wane - i.e. the daylight portion of each 24 hour period grows progressively less (sigh) until Dec. 22. So get out there and savor the photoperiod!
Things are beginning to dry out, as the last deluge was intense but brief. If you have planted anything in the line of trees or shrubs this year, be diligent during the next two months to insure that the root balls get adequate moisture. You do not want your prized specimens suffering from water shortage.
Remember, just because it rained sometime or another, does not mean that adequate moisture made it down to the roots. Check the soil moisture, and if necessary give the plant a good slow soaking once in a while.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of actually checking the soil moisture condition around the plant roots. This may get your hands dirty, but not to fear, it washes off! You may have to move the mulch aside (if present) to get an accurate assessment of the situation, but again it is important that you know the soil condition, not the hydration of the mulch. (The soil should be damp, but not soggy.)
It is okay to let the soil dry a bit once in a while, but if the leaves on the plant start looking flaccid, the soil has reached what is referred to as the “wilting point”, which means there is no more moisture available for plant use.
Let me illustrate my point with a recent case. A customer had several plants in a mulched planting bed that were losing leaves as they were drying up. Outside the planting bed the grass was lush, and the ground was wet. I brushed aside the mulch beneath one of the afflicted plants and discovered the soil was dry to the point of being dusty.
How could this be?
The lawn sprinklers were hitting only the grass, and not the planting beds. This is normally fine, as grass needs much more water than shrubs.
In fact, we advise against watering planting beds with lawn irrigation systems, as they get excessively wet. However, the homeowner forgot that the plants in the planting bed DO need a drink of water once in a while! Here were two extremes in soil moisture conditions, less than one foot apart!
Will the plants recover? I suspect some will, but others were so severely dehydrated that only time will tell. (Plants can releaf to recover from losses due to dehydration, but that depends on the overall vigor of the plant.)
The point is this: Be cognizant of the environmental factors at work in your yard so that the plants you put in your piece of paradise thrive. Remember, plant guarantees that nurseries (including Piala’s) extend to you when you purchase green stock do not cover customer neglect. When in doubt, give us a call!
The bad news, from a geographical perspective, is that length of daylight is now on the wane - i.e. the daylight portion of each 24 hour period grows progressively less (sigh) until Dec. 22. So get out there and savor the photoperiod!
Things are beginning to dry out, as the last deluge was intense but brief. If you have planted anything in the line of trees or shrubs this year, be diligent during the next two months to insure that the root balls get adequate moisture. You do not want your prized specimens suffering from water shortage.
Remember, just because it rained sometime or another, does not mean that adequate moisture made it down to the roots. Check the soil moisture, and if necessary give the plant a good slow soaking once in a while.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of actually checking the soil moisture condition around the plant roots. This may get your hands dirty, but not to fear, it washes off! You may have to move the mulch aside (if present) to get an accurate assessment of the situation, but again it is important that you know the soil condition, not the hydration of the mulch. (The soil should be damp, but not soggy.)
It is okay to let the soil dry a bit once in a while, but if the leaves on the plant start looking flaccid, the soil has reached what is referred to as the “wilting point”, which means there is no more moisture available for plant use.
Let me illustrate my point with a recent case. A customer had several plants in a mulched planting bed that were losing leaves as they were drying up. Outside the planting bed the grass was lush, and the ground was wet. I brushed aside the mulch beneath one of the afflicted plants and discovered the soil was dry to the point of being dusty.
How could this be?
The lawn sprinklers were hitting only the grass, and not the planting beds. This is normally fine, as grass needs much more water than shrubs.
In fact, we advise against watering planting beds with lawn irrigation systems, as they get excessively wet. However, the homeowner forgot that the plants in the planting bed DO need a drink of water once in a while! Here were two extremes in soil moisture conditions, less than one foot apart!
Will the plants recover? I suspect some will, but others were so severely dehydrated that only time will tell. (Plants can releaf to recover from losses due to dehydration, but that depends on the overall vigor of the plant.)
The point is this: Be cognizant of the environmental factors at work in your yard so that the plants you put in your piece of paradise thrive. Remember, plant guarantees that nurseries (including Piala’s) extend to you when you purchase green stock do not cover customer neglect. When in doubt, give us a call!
Monday, June 15, 2009
Shade Trees and Locusts
How is spring progressing in your part of the world? Have you taken time to notice? Black Locusts are finishing up their blossoming time and perfuming the local atmosphere. They really put on a show this year, and were hard to ignore along the roadsides.
Some of you even called to ask what the trees were and if Piala’s sold them. We do not sell them, mainly for the reason that all those fragrant flowers produce seeds, and most people do not want their lawns covered in Black Locust pods. They are also somewhat thorny, so that detracts from their appeal as well.
Since most plants are seriously engaged in growing right now, my overtures in past weeks to moving field grown trees is no longer valid. If you procrastinated this long, you will have to wait until fall now. However, all is not lost. Many nurseries carry a nice supply of heeled in stock, i.e. larger trees that were dug during dormancy and have a root ball attached. The root ball is wrapped in burlap or wire mesh and then covered with wood chips or some other mulch. Hence the plant can still be moved relatively safely at this time of year.
Piala’s has a surprising array of plants in this category (referred to B&B, balled and burlapped), as well as smaller specimens growing in containers. So if the urge hits you to put in a tree this summer, you can indulge yourself.
Instant shade!
One area of potential concern I have been noticing too frequently this year relates to the use of wood chips (colored types) and shredded bark. As the mulch decomposes, more needs to be added to keep the planting beds looking nice. That is fine (and necessary), but occasionally some of the older, underlying material must be removed, or the build up becomes excessively thick.
The problem with excessive build up is that insects and rodents can begin to take up residence within the mulch, and wreak havoc on the plants. Later in the summer, the excessive mulch build up can serve as a reservoir for fungal diseases. As a result of those infestations, you might find yourself using more pesticides than in the past. That costs money, and takes more time away from other summer pursuits you’d rather be doing. Be aware, and save yourself headaches down the road. Talk to you again.
Some of you even called to ask what the trees were and if Piala’s sold them. We do not sell them, mainly for the reason that all those fragrant flowers produce seeds, and most people do not want their lawns covered in Black Locust pods. They are also somewhat thorny, so that detracts from their appeal as well.
Since most plants are seriously engaged in growing right now, my overtures in past weeks to moving field grown trees is no longer valid. If you procrastinated this long, you will have to wait until fall now. However, all is not lost. Many nurseries carry a nice supply of heeled in stock, i.e. larger trees that were dug during dormancy and have a root ball attached. The root ball is wrapped in burlap or wire mesh and then covered with wood chips or some other mulch. Hence the plant can still be moved relatively safely at this time of year.
Piala’s has a surprising array of plants in this category (referred to B&B, balled and burlapped), as well as smaller specimens growing in containers. So if the urge hits you to put in a tree this summer, you can indulge yourself.
Instant shade!
One area of potential concern I have been noticing too frequently this year relates to the use of wood chips (colored types) and shredded bark. As the mulch decomposes, more needs to be added to keep the planting beds looking nice. That is fine (and necessary), but occasionally some of the older, underlying material must be removed, or the build up becomes excessively thick.
The problem with excessive build up is that insects and rodents can begin to take up residence within the mulch, and wreak havoc on the plants. Later in the summer, the excessive mulch build up can serve as a reservoir for fungal diseases. As a result of those infestations, you might find yourself using more pesticides than in the past. That costs money, and takes more time away from other summer pursuits you’d rather be doing. Be aware, and save yourself headaches down the road. Talk to you again.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)